Migration Op-Ed Series: Flavors Without Borders: The Gastronomic Gift of Migration

Flavors Without Borders: The Gastronomic Gift of Migration

by Sara Bin Mahfooz

This culinary journey revealed itself in unexpected ways throughout our travels. The aroma of shawarma spices emanating from small eateries in Athens, or the sight of falafel stands alongside traditional souvlaki shops, serves as a poignant reminder of how migrants and refugees enrich their new communities through the flavors of their homelands. As a visitor, I was intrigued by the Arabic-translated menus I encountered. This linguistic diversity in the culinary landscape ignited my curiosity to explore how locals are supporting migrants and refugees in the food scene and how these gastronomic exchanges are fostering cultural understanding.

Food is a universal language that brings people together across cultures, playing a crucial role in the integration of migrants into new communities. During a three-week immersive summer course on Migration and Refugee Studies across Greece, I explored not just the complexities of migration but also the rich flavors that migrants bring to their new homes. From Athens to Lesvos, each location offered a gastronomic perspective on the intersection of food and migration.

A highlight of my time in Athens was meeting with Tastes of Damascus, a local organization that supports migrants and refugees through food. This culinary venture, born from a partnership between a Syrian immigrant and his Franco-Greek wife, exemplifies the power of food to bridge cultures and create opportunities. By day, they pursue their separate careers, but in the evening, they come together to run the restaurant. At its heart is the Syrian husband’s mother, the main chef, bringing authentic Syrian flavors. The crisp, golden falafel paired with refreshing mint-infused lemonade made for the perfect afternoon snack to tolerate the sweltering summer heat in Athens.

Tastes of Damascus is more than just a restaurant; it’s a testament to the resilience and creativity of refugees, illustrating how culinary traditions can transform and enrich host communities. It provides employment, training and a sense of purpose for its refugee staff while offering Athenians and visitors a chance to experience the richness of Syrian cuisine. This example vividly illustrates how migrants and refugees, when given opportunities, can enrich their host communities through their culinary skills and cultural heritage.

The mixing of different food cultures offers a delicious example of how migration positively impacts our communities. Food brings us together, offering a sense of what the sociologist Anthony Giddens call “ontological security”— a feeling of stability and continuity—to those who have traveled thousands of miles, carrying with them rich cultural traditions. As we delve deeper into the complex issues surrounding refugee and migrant experiences, it becomes clear that food serves as both a comfort to those far from home and a powerful tool for integration and cultural exchange. Additionally, for host communities, migration enriches local cuisines by introducing new ingredients, cooking techniques, and cultural influences, often leading to the creation of fusion dishes.

However, the integration of migrant cuisines is not without challenges, with building trust being a significant hurdle. I had the chance to meet with the owner of Reem, a Syrian restaurant in the heart of Lesvos. When he first opened, he said it was difficult for him to win the trust of the locals. To overcome this barrier, he implemented an innovative solution: hiring Greek students to work in his restaurant. This strategy not only helped with bridging the cultural gap but also created valuable economic opportunities for local youth, supporting them financially. The owner’s approach demonstrates how culinary enterprises can become a platform for community integration and mutual benefit between migrants and local residents.

This blending and integration of cultures through cuisine is not a new phenomenon. Looking back at the history of Greece, particularly the island of Lesvos, we can trace the profound influence of past migrations and conquests on local cuisine. Lesvos, conquered by the Ottoman Empire in 1462 and ruled until 1912, offers a perfect example of how historical events shape culinary traditions. During my visit to this picturesque island, I experienced firsthand the lasting impact of Ottoman influence on the local food culture. The ubiquitous coffee, known as both Turkish and Greek depending on whom you ask, bears witness to this culinary legacy.

This historical perspective demonstrates how the integration of migrant cuisines is not a new phenomenon, but rather a continuous process that has been enriching Greek gastronomy for generations, creating a diverse culinary landscape that reflects the country’s complex history. Internationally, similar efforts are seen in initiatives like the UNHCR supported food festival in Paris, where refugee chefs showcase their culinary talents. This festival fosters social cohesion and provides economic opportunities, amplifying the positive impact of food in building bridges between communities and enhancing mutual understanding and respect.

In a world often divided by borders and differences, food emerges as a powerful unifier, and in every dish lies a story of resilience, hope, and connection. As we savor the diverse flavors brought by migrants and refugees, we are reminded of the shared humanity that binds us all.

Featured photos courtesy of Tastes of Damascus.